IT’S REAL IF IT BLEEDS

COUTURE COLLECTION 2025

I titled my first couture show “It’s Real if it Bleeds” thinking it was a quote from a horror movie I had seen. I realised it was a misquote, but the phrase stuck with me, and it manifested into an overarching concept relating to the human connection I crave when creating fashion and costume.

This show is a commentary on the human experience, and fear specifically, through my own eyes—queer, young, and living in Sydney, surrounded by the urgency of global politics, ever- receding human rights, and people paralysed by inaction and indifference.

As the show progresses, our current sociopolitical reality is expressed in three movements – War, Ashes, and Oligarchy. The cycle of exploitation chews people up through War, disposes of their remains as Ashes, and the Oligarchs responsible reap the rewards.

I have specifically referenced fashions from the end of the Victorian Era through to the 1920s. The changes that took place in fashion from 1870-1920 were extreme, and this show evokes this same extremity. I want society to change as dramatically in my lifetime as the silhouettes did of the late Victorians – I want the shift from hourglass corsetry and floor-sweeping crinolines to slim, formless shift dresses and gowns to be equivocal to social changes in contemporary society.

For the last ten weeks, I have collaborated with the models on this runway to realise looks that represent the movements that comprise this show. I came from costume, and I value the connection between the wearer, the designer, and the maker. I want to make couture accessible to everyone, and save it from being a luxury only attainable by the one percent of the one percent.

I practice couture because I want to connect with individuals, rather than produce products for the masses. I enjoy creating pieces organically, while in conversation with their wearers.

Individualising a specific garment for you is really a collaboration, and this collaboration creates a garment more meaningful than any piece of clothing you can purchase off a rack.

IT'S REAL IF IT BLEEDS

LOOK 1

Military Jacket (Open Collar)

  • Waxed cotton material
  • Brass buttons
  • Polyester lining

Dirt Train Skirt

  • Plunging drape front
  • Crinkled polyester
  • Draped tracks along the side of the skirt
  • Real mud scenic finish
  • Raw hem

Styled with: Double lace check ties, white heels, and silver rings
Model: Isobel Morrisey

MILITARY JACKET

IT'S REAL IF IT BLEEDS

LOOK 2

Dress Maker’s Top

  • Horsehair canvas material
  • Pleated epaulettes
  • Polyester lining
  • Frayed edges
  • Lace trim stand collar
  • Burnt ivory braiding

Dress Maker’s X-Ray Skirt

  • Horsehair canvas side panels
  • Polyester front and back panel with fused lace trim
  • Back slit and invisible zipper at center-back seam
  • Raw hem

Model: Corina Avila

DRESS MAKER'S X-RAY SKIRT

IT'S REAL IF IT BLEEDS

LOOK 3

Exposed Lava Blazer

  • Black polyester velvet embedded in red silk velvet
  • Wool twill with raindrop dye technique
  • Placket with zipper back
  • Rock button spine detail
  • Exaggerated shirt-style collar at back
  • Tulle at sleeve head for volume
  • Fully canvased
  • Red polyester lining

Rain Pants

  • Wool twill with raindrop dye technique
  • Double front pleats
  • Placket from mid-calf to hem
  • Rock button fastening on placket

Model: Holly Purcell

EXPOSED LAVA BLAZER

IT'S REAL IF IT BLEEDS

LOOK 4

Stiff Front Military Jacket

  • Stabilized front panel
  • Fused scenic ribbon
  • Red painted and waxed "blood" patches
  • Detached front stand collar
  • Entirely open back
  • Hook-and-eye and press-stud opening at back
  • Red polyester lining

Trouser-Style Constricting Skirt

  • Fly-front opening with trouser-style waistband
  • Welt pockets at back
  • Constricting fit at knees with front slit from knee down

Model: Michael Naughton

STIFF FRONT MILITARY JACKET

IT'S REAL IF IT BLEEDS

LOOK 5

Braided Open Split Dress

  • Black wet-look knit fabric
  • Side-slit open design
  • Red cotton braids with Chinese frogging knots
  • Illusion of knots holding the dress together
  • Fused hems on sides and hemline
  • Black cotton braid framing armholes

Styled with: Feathers in hair and open-toe pumps
Model: Sam Martin

BRAIDED OPEN SPLIT DRESS

IT'S REAL IF IT BLEEDS

LOOK 6

Curved Collar Blazer

  • Sharkskin-look leathery fabric with sanding
  • Reverse shawl-style collar (can be worn folded back)
  • Antique-gold polyester lining
  • Faux leather black braids at shoulders
  • Fused interior for soft/stretchy wear
  • Rounded shoulder pads
  • Single brass button closure

Low-Rise Sharkskin Suit Pants

  • Ultra low rise
  • Bootcut leg
  • Sanded for worn-in effect
  • Raw hem
  • Fly-front opening

Model: Chloe Langbein

CURVED COLLAR BLAZER

IT'S REAL IF IT BLEEDS

LOOK 7

Heavy Wool with Multi-Drape Collar

  • Heavy boiled wool base
  • Black wet-look knit fabric
  • Shoulder pads
  • Side zipper opening
  • Tapered sleeve
  • Black satin braid at collar
  • Asymmetrical hem

Styled with: Black tights and Chelsea boots
Model: Lucas Flood

HEAVY WOOL WITH MULTI-DRAPE COLLAR

IT'S REAL IF IT BLEEDS

LOOK 8

Scarlet Feather Torn Blazer

  • Red wool with elastane
  • Concealed buttons
  • Feather trim at sleeve vents and waist
  • Polyester lining
  • Half-canvased
  • Dense, elongated shoulder pads
  • Black satin braids mirrored on shoulders

Scarlet Constricting Pencil Skirt

  • Fly-front opening with trouser-style waistband
  • Constricting fit at knees with front slit from the knee down

Model: Andrew Waldin

IT'S REAL IF IT BLEEDS

LOOK 9

Burnt Rose Dress

  • Crimson georgette fabric
  • Burnt edges with black scenic dye for burnt effect
  • Draped wrap style
  • Exposed right hip
  • Halter neckline

Styled with: Red feathers in hair
Model: Angelina Kondakoff

BURNT ROSE DRESS

IT'S REAL IF IT BLEEDS

LOOK 10

Feather and Lava Devore Dress

  • Hand-devoré silk velvet
  • Ombré-dyed velvet with shredded hem
  • Black tulle skirt with feather trim
  • Raw edges
  • Halter-style top

Styled with: Feathers in hair and Pleaser heels
Model: Alice Glascott

FEATHER AND LAVA DEVORE DRESS

IT'S REAL IF IT BLEEDS

LOOK 11

Open Tissue Light Jacket

  • Multi-layered burnt tulle
  • Brass buttons
  • Shredded collar
  • Raw hem

Rock Button Tux Pants

  • Fly-front opening
  • Chocolate wool fabric
  • Tuxedo stripe with PJB Stable Rock shank buttons

Model: Sebastien Langbein

ROCK BUTTON TUXEDO PANTS

IT'S REAL IF IT BLEEDS

LOOK 12

Halo Dress

  • Heavy Lycra fabric
  • Deep plunge halo hood
  • Front seam connected to high middle slit
  • Extra-long sleeves

Styling options: Slit can be moved to the side; hood can be worn hanging down the back or over one shoulder
Styled with: Clear Pleasers
Model: Ellie Williams

HALO DRESS

IT'S REAL IF IT BLEEDS

LOOK 13

Lava Top

  • Burnt polyester fabric (stiff)
  • Longline princess-seamed bust
  • Organic lacing at the back
  • Stand collar

Sheer Wet-Look Skirt

  • Low rise
  • Invisible zipper at back seam
  • Raw hem

Styled with: Antler wrap belt (PJB Accessories) and Rick Owens slanted wedge boots
Model: Elle Fitzgerald

LAVA TOP

IT'S REAL IF IT BLEEDS

LOOK 14

Lingerie X-Ray Dress

  • Azure grey stretch lace
  • Layered black tulle in lining, straps, and godets
  • Raw hems and overlapping seams

Styling options: Dress is reversible—can be worn with tulle on the outside
Styled with: Heel-less latex Jeffrey Campbell platforms
Model: Chango Qin

LINGERIE X-RAY DRESS

IT'S REAL IF IT BLEEDS

LOOK 15

Black Sap Beaded Dress

  • Black burnt velvet appliqué
  • Pearl and rhinestone beaded detailing
  • Nude lace bodysuit with low back and open crotch
  • Grey shot georgette in a draped wrap style with extra length for styling
  • Raw edges and hem

Styling options: Extra fabric can be worn as scarf, hood, shawl, or draped over the body
Styled with: Feathered Pleasers (PJB Accessories)
Model: Saskia Maccioni

BALCK SAP BEADED DRESS

IT'S REAL IF IT BLEEDS

LOOK 16

My Morticia Dress

  • Black polyester mid-weight crepe
  • Wide-neck bodysuit with open crotch
  • Deep plunge, high-back skirt (attached at back and sides) in a constricting fit with back slit
  • Lace jacket with exaggerated ruffle cuffs
  • Lace trim around jacket border
  • Jacket attaches via snaps at bodysuit sides

Model: Vanessa Rogers

MY MORTICIA DRESS

IT'S REAL IF IT BLEEDS

LOOK 17

Buried Ruffle Slip Dress

  • Hand crinkle-pleated georgette
  • Long front facing panel
  • Plunged back with hook-and-eye clamps
  • Main fabric with lace-trim ribbon tied at waist/crotch
  • Feather hip pads
  • Ruffles and thin lace ribbons at the back
  • Airbrushed dye: charcoal, brown, and taupe

Styled with: Alexander McQueen SS12 snakeskin and horn heels
Model: Maddie Moore

BURIED RUFFLE SLIP DRESS

IT'S REAL IF IT BLEEDS

LOOK 18

Feather Explosion Dress

  • Bridal tulle base
  • Halter-style top adorned with ostrich and metallic-painted duck feathers
  • Ribbon-tied back skirt

Styling options: Tie skirt high at the waist; halter top should be tied slightly loose for body volume
Model: Caitlin Green

IT'S REAL IF IT BLEEDS

LOOK 19

Black Shipwreck Dress

  • Black georgette base
  • Wrinkled black polyester sewn onto base
  • Halter neck with open back and center-back zipper
  • Long wrinkled ribbons on skirt
  • Georgette halter ties

Styling options: Extra halter ribbons can hang down the back, wrap around arms, function as scarf, or hood
Styled with: Ship hair sculpture by Olivia Hopkinson (PJB Accessories) and patent leather Pleaser boots
Model: Keesha Field

BLACK SHIPWRECK DRESS

IT'S REAL IF IT BLEEDS

LOOK 20

Ashes Tailcoat

  • Multi-layered textured polyester
  • Airbrushed and stenciled dye
  • Long tails, cropped front, cinched waist
  • Neckerchief attached to lapel
  • PJB Rock buttons
  • Raw edges

Ashes Low-Waist Tux Trousers

  • Fly-front opening
  • Tuxedo stripe
  • Airbrushed stencil dye
  • Raw hem

Model: Holly Matthews

ASHES TAILCOAT

IT'S REAL IF IT BLEEDS

LOOK 21

Pleated X-Ray Lace Coat

  • Pleated striped nylon fabric
  • Victorian-style puff sleeve heads with internal tulle ruffles
  • White tulle lining
  • Fused and stitched lace trim along front and back seams (inside pleats)
  • Exaggerated white ruffle open collar and cuffs
  • Rock button front closure
  • Raw hem

White Cloud Petticoat

  • Gathered and tacked plastic fabric
  • Petticoat made of white tulle to support coat’s shape

Model: Jago Field

PLEATED X-RAY LACE COAT

IT'S REAL IF IT BLEEDS

LOOK 22

Disheveled Tuxedo Shirt

  • Cream georgette shirt with detailed chest ruffles
  • Ruffled collar with Sinamay injected into middle layer
  • Rock buttons on shirt placket
  • Two ribbon neck ties under ruffle
  • Sleeves transition into fingerless gloves
  • Lace trim around cuffs
  • Raw hem

Disheveled Tuxedo Pants

  • Wet-look knit cumberbund with matching tuxedo stripe
  • Wool and cashmere twill base
  • Invisible zipper on right side

Model: Victor Xu.

DISHEVELED TUXEDO SHIRT

IT'S REAL IF IT BLEEDS

LOOK 23

Victorian Doll Dress

  • Pleated striped nylon fabric
  • Gathered just above the knee and sewn to elastic for adjustable styling
  • Black tulle lining extends past cream nylon
  • Neck ruffle with lace-trimmed collar
  • Cap sleeves and lace-trimmed epaulettes
  • Raw asymmetrical hem
  • Invisible mid-back zipper

Styled with: PJB-adapted Lita boots by Jeffrey Campbell (feather heel – PJB Accessories)
Model: Cat McCartney

VICTORIAN DOLL DRESS

IT'S REAL IF TI BLEEDS

LOOK 24

Open Seam Dress

  • Bridal tulle top and sleeves
  • Black satin devoré dress
  • Open seams filled with cotton voile
  • Black devoré ruffle collar
  • Black ribbon triangle embellishment
  • Lace-trimmed cuffs

Styled with: Jeffrey Campbell circle cut-out wedges with mega laces
Model: Celeste Robertson

OPEN SEAM DRESS

IT'S REAL IF IT BLEEDS

LOOK 25

Striped Bare Dress (Concept Piece)

  • Red and azure grey netting
  • Steel-boned crinoline skirt
  • Airbrushed lace and georgette

Styled by: Holding layers up to chest to transform skirt into dress
Model: Milo Hartill

IT'S REAL IF IT BLEEDS

LOOK 26

Double Shawl Collar Waistcoat

  • Chocolate jacquard fabric
  • First shawl collar in sharkskin
  • Red polyester lining
  • Four rock buttons with one concealed button on overlapping collar

Ruffled Suit Pants

  • Brown wool twill base
  • Cascading multi-lace ruffles on front only
  • Fly-front opening

Styled with: Combat boots
Model: Saxon Thompson

DOUBLE SHAWL COLLAR VEST

IT'S REAL IF IT BLEEDS

LOOK 27

Double-Collar Double-Breasted Waistcoat

  • Chocolate jacquard fabric
  • First shawl collar in sharkskin
  • Red polyester lining
  • Four rock buttons with one concealed button on overlapping collar

Ruffled Suit Pants

  • Brown wool twill base
  • Cascading multi-lace ruffles on front only
  • Fly-front opening

Styled with: Combat boots
Model: Saxon Thompson

Button label

ITS'S REAL IF IT BLEEDS

LOOK 28

Inflated Blood Pouring Gown

  • Matte metallic dress with bubble seams
  • Distressed buttons fused to red-wine bridal tulle
  • Large stuffed shoulder pieces (netting for structure)
  • Unlined
  • Low back with center-back zip

Styled with: Knee-high Victorian lace-up boots
Model: Teodora Matovic

INFLATED BLOOIED GOWN

It's Real If It bleeds

LOOK 29

X-Ray Slashed Edwardian Top & Skirt Set

  • Sheer polyester fabric
  • Skirt with plastic boning and white tulle lining
  • Asymmetrical dart placement on top
  • Lace and distressed muslin in collar, cuffs, and skirt train
  • Airbrushed dye treatment
  • Note: Does not include blood stains

Styled with: Rick Owens “Minimal Grill Kiss” boots
Model: Jude Paddon-Row

X-RAY SLASHED EDWARDIAN SET

It's Real If It Bleeds

LOOK 30

Victorian Shell Gown

  • Neoprene and stabilizer fused shell
  • Outer shell fabric: crinkled satin polyester (raw-edged)
  • Wool twill “pair-of-stays” with flat steel boning
  • Structural tulle ruffle sleeves at sleeve heads for puff volume
  • Lace trim at front of shell
  • Bubble skirt: tulle netting and polyester glass organza
  • Bubble gathers at knee and includes adjustable organza ribbon
  • “Pair-of-stays” includes 7mm ribbon; shell includes 25mm decorative ribbon

Model: Sebrina

VICTORIAN SHELL GOWN

CREDITS

DESIGNER - Paris Jade Burrows
Producer - Oliver Langbein
Director - Samuel Allen
On-Site Associate Creative Director - Theo Carroll
Stage Manager - Daniel Story
Composer - Dahyo Lloyd
Technicians - Michael Cousins, Jin Jang
Photographer - Phil Erbacher
Front of House - John Truscott, James Gordge, Jasmine Fletcher
Hair and Makeup Artists - Olivia Hopkinson, Theodore Herbert, Mackenzie Elise Foote
Garment Makers - Karamea Gostt, Kit Moore
Design Assistants - Zali Kassi, Emily Glascott, Elle Fitzgerald, Keesha Field, Nina Price, Sam Hernandez, Bianca Polinelli, Georgia Raczkowaki, Cade Aslaugh

Models - Isobel Morrissey, Corina Avila, Holly Purcell, Michael Naughton, Sam Martin, Chloe Langbein, Lucas Flood, Andrew Waldin, Angelina Kondakoff, Alice Glascott, Sebastien Langbein, Ellie Williams, Elle Fitzgerald, Chango Qin, Saskia Maccioni, Vanessa Rogers, Maddie Moore, Caitlin Green, Keesha Field, Holly Matthews, Jago Field, Victor Xu, Cat McCartney, Celeste Robertson, Milo Hartill, Saxon Thompson, Sabrina Woods, Teodora Matović, Jude Paddon-Row &
Sebrina